Tips For Braking

Brakes are the most important thing in our motorcycle. If you want to drive safely, without any road accidents, you need to learn proper braking techniques. We often hear such opinions from fellow riders: “I don’t use the front brake, it is too dangerous on my bike” Or “I never use the rear brake, it is completely useless” and so on. It’s clear, that most riders don’t know how to use brakes properly, so I decided to deliver some useful info about this important aspect.

Do you know which brake is the most important on any motorcycle? If you answered the front brake, you are right. Front brakes provide you with most stopping power (60-80%). If you still don’t believe, you should see these numbers: Official tests revealed that using both brakes on a standard motorcycle will stop you with mean deceleration of .776 G (gravitational constant). And just the front brake delivers almost as much stopping force – .711 G!

But when rear brakes are used exclusively, deceleration is significantly lower – only .425 G. Bikes with the linked braking systems (LBS) were tested too. Usually, on such motorcycles both brakes apply when you press the foot pedal. Actually results were lower when using foot pedal or the front brake control only (but brakes are linked together). So even with LBS, using both brakes gave better result (.740 G compared to .583 G or .440G). And the point is – you should always use all brake controls simultaneously, not just the front brake.

The rear brake is important too. Even on a sportbike, which usually transfers all weight in the front, after couple of seconds, rear brake use is still needed. You will use that before all weight is transferred (after that rear brakes will be partially inefficient), and those few moments will decelerate motorcycle greatly. On the cruisers and other heavy bikes rear brake is even more important, because the rear part of the motorcycle will be continuously stable through all braking process, and that’s why rear brakes will not lose power just after 1-2 seconds, like on the sportbike.

In addition, rear brake applies stabilizing effect, and holds your rear wheel in the back, without sliding sideways, or hopping around.

Useful tip: when braking, don’t downshift, just pull in the clutch. Studies showed that downshifting while braking actually adds few additional meters to your normal stopping distance. So just pull in the clutch and brake.

Of course this area needs a lot of practice, you can’t become “braking expert” overnight. And the thing is – you need to practice braking from the high speeds (like highway speeds, 90+km/h), not from 25km/h, when you are training in a parking lot. The problem is that braking from the low speeds may seem easy, you just push the brakes hard and that’s all. But in real situation, braking from over 100km/h can be disastrous if you push the brakes to the limit – over-braking will cause loss of control, and you will crash (usually this happens, if the front wheel locks).

Also, ABS is very good thing. Even when compared to usual braking systems on clean, dry pavement (in such conditions ABS doesn’t really have advantage) ABS is able to deliver more stopping power, deceleration is harder almost on 0.1 G. Also ABS eliminates the risk of wheel lock-up and stops are relatively safe. Unfortunately this feature is equipped only on expensive bikes, so beginners will probably don’t have this ABS on their bikes. However, if you are able to get bike with ABS, get it – you will not regret.

Tips for Braking

 i)When going downwards, use the front brake. Many riders think that you need to apply brake to “less stressed” rear wheel in this situation. But it is wrong, it may lock up (loose grip and pass the front). Remember – if the wheel carries less weight in any particular moment, it will lock up easier than the wheel with more weight on it.

  ii)Check your front suspension frequently. If you have weak suspension and worn out springs, you braking power will decrease and you will not be able to brake really hard or you will lose control. So front suspension in bad condition is dangerous thing. However, if you have a BMW motorcycle with anti-dive systems you will not experience such problems. Unfortunately, this system is only installed on BMW motorcycles at the moment.

  iii)While you are driving with a heavily loaded motorcycle, or a passenger, make sure you don’t push front brakes too quickly and too strong – wheel will lock immediately if the front springs will be pushed to the limit. You will have to use the rear brake more, and for longer distance.

Finally, how should you brake? The best sequence for this procedure is:

1. Close the throttle and use the rear brake.
2. Straighten the motorcycle if needed, and adjust your posture and hand position.
3. Use the front brake and declutch. Don’t squeeze brakes too firmly. Rear brakes shouldn’t be applied at this moment.
4. Adjust the brake pressure.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      This whole process usually takes 3 seconds to stop from 100km/h, and it’s really quick. So in order to do everything right you just need to practice this important aspect, no way around. Mastering braking is very important thing, so make sure you will spend as much time as needed

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ABS-Anti Lock Breaking System

Disc brakes do have a tendency to get locked due to higher efficiency level of braking of the system. While in motion when the disc gets locked, the wheel starts to skid on the road disbalancing the rider. Thus tangential resultant forces comes into effect on the whole motorcycle frame. Ultimately if this tangential force is not stopped in time, it forces the whole motorcycle to slide sidewise causing the riders to loose complete control of the vehicle & fall and may cause a major accident.

ABS on the other hand acts in such a way so as to stop the wheel but not completely locking & stopping the wheel. During a braking action the rider/s moves forward, thus moving the vehicle centre of gravity towards the front end of the vehicle. Thus stopping of the vehicle with the help of front wheel is more effective than stopping of the rear wheel/s.

Considering the vehicle is running at 90 Degrees angle with the road while brake is applied, if the front wheel is locked while the rear wheel is still rotating, there is a chance of vehicle getting overturned frontways due to shift of centre of gravity (towards front) and high inertia of motion and less load on the back side of the vehicle compared to the forward forces acting on the vehicle.

Considering the same above conditions (i.e. brake is applied & front brake got locked while vehicle in motion) when the vehicle is not running at 90 degrees angle with the road i.e. the vehicle frame is having an angle less than 90 degrees with the road (in either left or right side), then a radial force will act upon the rear wheel where the radious will be the length between the centre of gravity of the vehicle at that time to the point of contact of the rear wheel with the road. This radial force will try to move the rear wheel left or right – sideways (depending upon the < 90 degrees angle the vehicle frame made with the road surface during that time – either left side of the vehicle or the right side of the vehicle). Thus the rider will find (if at all it is possible for him / her to find it) that the rear wheels tend to move sideways more compared to forward movement.

During this time the front wheel also moves the opposite direction i.e. if the rear wheel moves left wards then the front wheel will move rightways, but the movement of the front wheel will be so little compared to the rear wheel that the rider will only feel about the rear wheel & not the front wheel. All this movement will happen in motion & keeping the center of such movement at the centre of gravity – which point will also moves due to the movement of the riders body movement due to inertia. Such complex movements of the moving mass (vehicle + rider) will eventually skid the vehicle sideways & for a two wheeler the rider & the vehicle will fall causing injuries & damage due to such accident.

With the above description we can clearly understand that why ABS system is necessary for any vehicle particularly a two wheeler. Simply because to avoid locking of disc braking system as they are very efficient in braking & quickly acts in stopping the wheel.

Compared to a disc system, the drum braking system in not very effetive & can not stop the wheels as effectively as a disc brake. That means that the time taken by the drum braking system in stopping a wheel is more compared to a disc system. The main intention of a braking system is to stop both front & rear wheels in the same time. This can be achieved mechanically if both front & rear brake system are of same type ( i.e. either disc or drum). However if any one of the above system is of differnt type then the question of ABS system arises.

Moreover if you consider that the front wheel is with a drum system & rear wheel is with a disc system (which is very unlikely, as front system should be an effective one as the momentum of the vehicle works towards the front end, as described earlier), there are chances that the rear wheel will get locked & stopped while the front wheel is still running. This will also create a sidewise redial force for the rear wheels, with centre of gravity as its center & eventually the vehicle will tend to skid sideways from the rear end. Thus this will also require a ABS system for the rear wheel. But even ABS will also not save the skid in such a system as we have considered a less effective braking system in front & more effective braking system at rear. Such a system, during braking, will normally generate a big difference in wheel rpm’s during braking & will always tend to pull sideways of the rear end of the vehicle causing a disbalance.

In a front & rear drum system if you install a ABS (I do not know if there is any) it has to be purely an electronic one. Rather than a mechanical system a electronic ABS system found in todays costly cars are the right one which actually takes into account many parameters like engine speed, throttle conditions, hydraulic pump, pressure developed in hydraulic system & wheel speed etc while braking both front & rear wheels.

The topic is very complecated in nature, but I hope it enlightens you about ABS.

In Detail,about the topic is given below...

TVS has already made their ability by introducing Apache 180 with ABS. ABS in not a new concept for four wheeler and two wheeler as well. In 1988, BMW introduced the first motorcycle with an electronic-hydraulic ABS: the BMW K100. Honda followed suit in 1992 with the launch of its first motorcycle ABS on the ST1100 Pan European. In 2007, Suzuki launched its GSF1200SA (Bandit) with an ABS.

In 2005, Harley-Davidson began offering ABS as an option for police bikes. In 2008, ABS became a factory-installed option on all Harley-Davidson Touring motorcycles and standard equipment on select models. Now let us enlighten how ABS works on bikes.

Skidding Mechanism

Skidding of a vehicle leads to disaster in many cases. Skidding starts when force applied by driver on the brake lever is more than the required. Skidding results when friction in brakes become more than the friction exists between tyre and road surface. That means wheel gets locked and start skidding on road surface. Less force leads to poor braking and more force leads to skidding. So to avoid the skidding of vehicle, the braking force should remain in limit.

In normal bikes, the brake lever is directly connected with calliper. The force applied by the driver on lever is directly exerted on calliper & disc without any interrupt. In the case of ABS, this braking force is exerted through ECU and Hydraulic valve.

The ABS prevents the wheels from locking during braking. It does this by constantly measuring the individual wheel speeds and comparing them with the wheel speeds predicted by the system. This speed measurement is done by individual speed sensors.

If, during braking, the measured wheel speed deviates from the system‘s predicted wheel speed, the ABS controller takes over, correcting the brake force to keep the wheel at the optimum slip level and so achieving the highest possible deceleration rate.

This is carried out separately for each wheel. Controller is nothing but an ECU with appropriate programming. This program avoids the rotational speed of wheel to become zero (Locking). This is done by temporary releasing the brake force by shutting off the valve in oil reservoir.

The ECU constantly monitors the rotation speed of each wheel. When it detect that any number of wheel are rotating slower than the other (this condition will bring the tyre to lock), it moves the valves to decrease the pressure on the braking circuit, effectively reduce the braking force on that wheel.

The wheels turn faster and when they turn too fast, the force is reapplied. This process is repeated continuously, and this is causes characteristic pulsing feel through the brake pedal.

Figure show major parts of Antilock-Braking System. Basic of antilock braking system consists of three major parts;

1. Electronic Speed Sensor: This sensor will measure the wheel velocity and vehicle acceleration. LOCATION: On wheel Hub
2. Toothed Disc: It helps the speed sensor to read the speed of wheel. LOCATION: With Brake Disc
3. Electrical Control Unit (ECU). ECU is a microprocessor based system contains program. LOCATION: Under the Driver’s Seat
4. Electrically Controller Valve. This controller valve will control the pressure in a brake cylinder. LOCATION: With ECU

The following are the 3 major benefits of ABS

1. Stopping Distance

As the braking force is controlled and applied electronically, the stopping distance reduces considerably in comparison with normal bike.

2. Sudden Braking

In the case of ABS, the braking is intermittent in nature. So vehicle remains easily steerable during braking also. Below figure shows the comparison of normal bike and ABS bike at sudden braking.

3. Braking on Slippery surface

Most of the riders must have experienced this condition with their bikes and also know the results. ABS provides equal distribution of braking force on each wheel and provides straight line stopping of vehicle.

Some Interesting Facts about ABS

Donovan Green, United States, Department of Transportation had performed some experiments on bikes with and without ABS in 2006. Following bike were selected by him for his test.

• 2002 Honda VFR 800 with ABS
• 2002 BMW F650 with ABS
• 2002 BMW R 1150R with ABS
• 2002 BMW R 1150R without ABS
• 2004 Yamaha FJR1300 with ABS
• 2004 Yamaha FJR1300 without ABS

He had performed two types of tests: 1. Dry Surface Tests 2. Wet Surface Tests. Following are the results of his experiments.

Dry Surface Tests

On the ABS-equipped motorcycles, the operator was tasked with braking sufficiently to assure the operation of the ABS. The measured stopping distance values were corrected to compare data from the speeds of 48 km/h and 128 km/h, except for the BMW F650 data, which was corrected to 48 km/h and 117 km/h, the latter figure limited by that model’s top speed of 157 km/h (i.e. 75% of 157 km/h).

In the ABS-enabled mode, for each load/speed/brake combination, the stopping distances were very consistent from one run to another. In this mode, the braking force was applied in a controlled and consistent manner by the ABS mechanism. With the exception of having to react to the possibility of the rear wheel becoming airborne under high deceleration, the rider did not require significant experience or special skill in order to achieve a high level of performance.

In the ABS-disabled mode, the stopping distances were less consistent because the rider while modulating the brake force, had to deal with many additional variables at the same time. Up to six runs were allowed for the rider to become familiar with the motorcycle’s behaviour and to obtain the best stopping distance.

Test results from non-ABS motorcycles were noticeably more sensitive to rider performance variability.
Despite being compared to the best stopping distances without ABS, the average results with ABS provided an overall reduction in stopping distance of 5%.

The stopping distance reduction was more significant when the motorcycle was loaded (averaging 7%). The greatest stopping distance reduction (averaging 17%) was observed when only the rear foot pedal was applied to stop the motorcycle from 128 km/h.

Wet Surface Tests

The original test procedure called for wet surface braking tests to be conducted at 48 and 128 km/h. However, for safety and stability reasons, all low-friction surface tests were performed in a straight-line maneuver, from an initial speed of 48 km/h. The tests were repeated with and without ABS. The test track was wetted by a water truck, and the wetting procedure was repeated every three stops.

With ABS-equipped motorcycles, the rider was instructed to brake sufficiently to assure that the ABS was fully cycling by applying as much force as necessary to the brake control device (no restrictions on force application).

The front and rear wheel brakes were operated simultaneously when the initial test speed was reached and then were operated individually when the front wheel and rear wheel were tested separately. During braking, the engine remained disconnected from the drive train.

A steering operation was allowed to keep or correct the running direction of the motorcycle during the test. Below vehicle speeds of 10 km/h, wheel locking was permitted.

For motorcycles not equipped with ABS, the test procedure was the same except that the rider was instructed to apply as much force as required on the brake control device in order to get the shortest stopping distance without losing vehicle control or having any wheel lockup above a speed of 10 km/h.

As with the dry surface tests, practically no learning process was required for the operator to achieve the best performance with the operation of ABS. In the ABS-disabled mode, the stopping distances improved as the rider became more familiar and comfortable with the braking system.

On the wet surface, the overall average stopping performance with ABS improved on the best non-ABS stopping distance by 5.0%. The stopping distance reduction with ABS was more significant when both brakes were applied, with an overall improvement averaging 10.8% over the best stops without ABS.

The greatest stopping distance reduction with the use of ABS was observed when the motorcycle was loaded and both brakes were applied, averaging a 15.5% improvement over the best stops without ABS

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Before Servicing Your Bike,,,

The best way to keep your vehicle running fresh, lean and green is to do the maintenance on regular basis. All maintenance requirements which owner should follow to keep vehicle in good condition are always provided by manufacturer in owner’s manual. It tells you everything you need to know, from what type of vehicle oil to use and how often it should be changed, to recommended intervals for engine and transmission checks, etc. Failing to follow this maintenance rule could void your vehicle’s warranty and reduce your vehicle life.

The design life of all vehicles requires periodic maintenance. Such as chains need adjustment, brakes need to be tighten, proper lubrication levels to be maintained, and so on. In some cases, certain components need replacement, e.g., flexible cables, clutch plates, etc. Anytime we fail to perform maintenance activities intended by the equipment’s designer, we shorten the operating life of the equipment. Study over the decades, says that vehicle or machines maintained properly may run longer or performed better than designed one. Instead of waiting for a vehicle to fail, we can utilize preventive maintenance, predictive maintenance, or reliability centred maintenance.

Most of the drivers love their vehicles and follow the preventive type of maintenance either periodically or non-periodically. Rest of the drivers wait till some breakdown in their machines. Service stations perform very minor maintenance operations in free services provided by the companies.

These operations are sufficient to run the new vehicle efficiently. Nowadays, service stations remind the owners about upcoming free services via phone, SMS etc. but what should be done after spending the free services? So here are 15 tips before submitting your vehicles to the service station for paid service.

1. Authorized service stations are not favored by the customers for paid preventive services because the billing amount goes very high. Customer doesn’t get opportunity for negotiation in billing amount also, nevertheless you should always prefer company’s authorised service stations because of skilled workers along with more number of efficient equipments.
2. If cost affects to you a lot and you are forced to go with some private garages then always prefer anearby garage from your home or office for which you got good feedback from your circle. It reduces your time as well as cost. You can also go to inspect your vehicle during the service if you are free. I often do that even with YAMAHA’s authorised service station.
3. Always prefer periodic maintenance if possible. Define the time period according to your usage. Prepare a schedule for a year. 3 months are generally preferred by the service stations. You can increase this duration up to 5 months if you don’t have extensive driving. You can have spa wash for your vehicles during this 5 months.
4. If you can’t follow the schedule, then go for non-periodic maintenance but it should be preventive. That means, the time period between two successive services is not defined. You can go as per your convenience or as per your unpredicted usage, but before having any breakdown.
5. Check your vehicle for any scratches and dents before going to the service stations. Also specify it to the vehicle inspector and if possible, make him to note down on the job card. Many of the service stations refuse their worker’s blunder at the time of delivery, if you observe any scratches or dents.
6. Always prefer a service station / garage where job cards are used. Job card is the communication language between vehicle inspector and worker.
7. Make a written list of your problems before going to service station otherwise there is a possibility to forget something important at the time of rush hours. Make sure that your problems are noted down by the vehicle inspector.
8. Check the tool kit provided in your vehicle. It is advisable to remove it. If you can’t then count the total number of tools before and after service.
9. Remove any costly and important stuff from your vehicle (if available).
10. Always take a drive with vehicle inspector if you are having some dynamic problems in your vehicle. Try to convince him if he refuses your problem. (mostly happens at TVS service stations)
11. Prefer the oil change in front of yourself as I do.
12. Make yourself aware about a distance of nearest petrol pump from the service station / garage. Also calculate the mileage of your vehicle. Some amount of petrol is used during the servicing. So keep a level of petrol according to these bits and pieces.
13. Never accept any replacement proposal blindly. Make sure whether it is really required or not. You can check the maintenance schedule in the user guide or can have suggestions from outside.
14. Ask for a tentative estimate. Remove any of the servicing or replacing proposal which is not very important at the stage, if the estimate is too much for your pocket.
15. Authorised service stations also introduce promotional and yearly servicing offers to the customers. So always ask for any promotional and yearly offers before leaving the service station.

I hope these points will help you in future and you all will try to have preventive maintenance. Please add your valuable comments and suggestions.

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In transport, driver visibility is the maximum distance at which the driver of a vehicle can see and identify prominent objects around the vehicle. Visibility is primarily determined by weather conditions and by a vehicle’s design. The parts of a vehicle that influence visibility includes the Front Fairing, Huge Fuel Tanks and Wind shield (If provided).

The factors affecting visibility from driver point of view are helmet design, driving habits, driver’s height and finally driver’s ability. Good driver visibility is essential to safe road traffic. Blind spots may occur in the front of the driver when the fairing (also the windshield), rear-view mirrors, helmet and tank block a driver’s view of the road. Behind the driver, there are pillion passenger and goods that may reduce visibility.

Blind Spot

Blind spots, in the context of driving an automobile, are the areas of the road and surroundings that cannot be seen while looking forward or through either the rear-view mirrors. Blind spots can be eliminated by overlapping both the rear-view mirrors, or checked by turning one’s head briefly.

Detection of vehicles or other objects in blind spots may also be aided by systems such as video cameras or distance sensors, though these are not yet incorporated in two wheelers sold to the general public.

Blind Spot Areas

The areas most commonly referred to as blind spots are the rear quarter blind spots, areas towards the rear of the vehicle on both sides. These areas are shown with grey colour. Vehicles in the adjacent lanes of the road may fall into these blind spots, and a driver may be unable to see them using only the mirrors. Other areas that are sometimes called blind spots are those that are too low to see in behind as well as in front of a vehicle. Also, in cases where side vision is hindered by helmet design, areas to the left or right can become blind spots as well.

Forward visibility

The front-end blind spots caused can create problems in traffic situations, such as in roundabouts, intersections, and road crossings. Front-end blind spots are influenced by the following design criteria

• Distance between the driver and the fairing
• Width of the fairing
• Angle of the windshield if provided
• Colour of the windshield in the case of sport bikes
• Height of the driver in relation to the windshield
• Colour of helmet shield

Effect of Vehicle Type

Generally speaking, two wheelers with larger front fairing or body work have larger front blind spots. These blind spots are generated on the road surface and under the projected area of fairing. Obstacles on the road are partly or sometimes completely covered by huge fairings. Driver has to control his vehicle with the help of his experience only.

Scooters are also fall in the same category as having front dome. For example, the blind spot in front of dirt bike could only hide small objects on the road; we can say negligible blind spots, while the blind spot of a sport or tourer bike can hide big objects and obstacles on the road, under the projected area of fairing resulting in accidents.

Effect of Height of the Driver

Driver height can also affect visibility. In some bikes the windshield is fillet with the roof-line with a big radius. This fillet round intersects with driver’s vision and creates visibility problems. Drivers with small height find problems to manage front and rear vision simultaneously in sport bikes because of turning limitations of rear view mirrors.

They also find difficulties in front vision while driving cruisers because cruisers are having low seating position and negative slope towards headlight. A driver may reduce the size of a blind spot or eliminate it completely by turning their head in the direction of the obstruction. This allows the driver to see better around the obstruction and allows the driver better depth perception.

Effect of Helmet Design

It is but obvious that helmet reduces the side vision angle by restricting the driver’s vision. Without helmet, our eyes can catch the moving parts within 180 on our both the sides and we can grab our attention to those moving objects by little turning our eyes along with head. In the case of helmet, the angle reduces to 150 to 160 and we are unable to get idea about any movement beyond these angles. So with helmet it becomes essential to use rear view mirrors and turning our head from side to side constantly.

Effect of Other Automobile Design Factors

Other design factors may prevent a manufacturer from maximizing visibility. These include safety, as narrower headlights cannot provide better visibility at night. In the case of sport bikes, aerodynamics doesn’t allow the designer to create their bikes without any fairing. The slope given to windshield is to reduce the drag; it also forms another limitation for the designers. Areas covered by rear view mirrors are affected by their sizes and shapes. Rear view mirrors have to provide sufficient rear visibility along with the good aesthetics.

Testing of Visibility

The vehicles are driven into the darkened lab and lights are mounted in a dummy driver’s eye position which is being used to project shadows on to a screen which is surrounded the vehicle in front, rear as well as bottom. The grid on the screen should be marked with a scale so that the edges of the shadow could be measured in terms of their distance from the driver’s eyes.

Firstly, a single bulb is used to project the shadow of blind spots on to the screen. Then, the coordinates of the upper and lower corners are measured to enable the area of vision obscured by the parts to be calculated. Then dummy’s head could be changed to one which had both left and right ‘eyes’ (bulbs) so that binocular vision and parts thickness could be assessed.

The edge of each part is measured using one bulb, then the other. In this way, we ensured that only the proportion of the part which is obscured to both eyes is measured. After measuring the areas on screen, designers try to minimize them, especially in sport bikes as they are dealing with very high speed and driver doesn’t get time to control the bike.

Some Tips to Improve Visibility

• Vehicle seat height should appropriate for you.
• Intersect both the rear view mirrors. A single object should appear in both the mirrors.
• If you are driving in city, keep the rear view mirrors little outward going opposite to each other. This will improve your visibility in rear quarter blind spots and helps at the time of turning.
• Never remove any of the rear view mirror.
• Try to accommodate your baggage within the width of seat or maximum up to the width of bike.
• Avoid extra fairing for aesthetics.
• Choose proper helmet with wide shield. Try to get bit loose helmet to turn your head instantly.
• Choose proper goggle for better visibility if not using helmet.
• Improve your judgement about obstacles covered in blind spot if using bikes with fairing.

We predominantly ignore or don’t feel the importance of visibility because it’s easier to develop visibility skills with two wheelers than the cars. We are not solemn about using rear view mirrors as well. But facts are evidence for importance of visibility and maximum of the accidents happen because of ignorance about visibility, either directly or circuitously.

Please submit your comments...
With Regards,,,

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Difference between Riding Fast&Rough

Many a times, road experiences heave our attention to write something. Few days back, my attention was dragged towards rough driving when I was coming back to my home on my Fazer (Click to read my ownership review).  I was going through a street and one teenager suddenly took “U” turn to move towards my lane. He was driving ACTIVA. After disturbing traffic in both the lanes, he unnecessarily started swinging his ACTIVA from one side to other. He was also applying throttle in addition to frequent hard braking. It was really troubling me to judge his path as I was just behind him. At that instant, I was confused to define his driving, either fast or rough.

Most of us are fast driver but possibility is thereto get converted into a rough driver, either consciously or unconsciously. Many a times, parents also use to say us fast and rough biker. So here, I want to differentiate these two driving habits.

Fast Driving

Obviously it relates speed in our driving habits. It doesn’t mean to disturb other drivers on the road. I think, fast driving is nothing but finding an easy and straight way to move our vehicle ahead with more speed than the others are having. In India, at least in Ahmedabad, lane driving is not at all followed by any one. Each driver is just driving his or her vehicle in his or her comfort zone. Few drivers drive at very left and few drive at very right. Majority of drivers form a bunch that drive at the middle of the road. Now if we find a way to move ahead in extreme left or right lanes, then we are observed as rough drivers. We have to generate a zigzag path if we want to accelerate in middle of the road. Here again, we are treated as a rough driver.

It’s all about our habits of driving vehicle that makes us fast or rough. Fast driving never disturbs any other driver on the road either driven straight or zigzag. In zigzag movement, appropriate distance from other vehicles also differentiates fast driving. It also never hurts our vehicle if controlled.

Rough Driving

Rough driving incorporates speed, sudden braking, unnecessary small stunts, ignorance of driving rules, immaturity of driver and most important hurting own vehicle. We can classify rough driving with two different aspects.

With Respect To Other Drivers On Road

I think all other drivers also feel the same difficulty which I had in above said incidence. Rough driving always disturbs other drivers to make any judgment about movement of rough driver. This happens because rough drivers themselves don’t know when and where he will move in next instant. Sometimes, these types of misjudgements lead to disaster for rough drivers or other drivers.

This situation becomes more critical when group of rough drivers drive on the road and convert their untamed enjoyment into crime. The groups which do this never knew that they are conducting a crime. In Ahmedabad, these types of crimes boost in 9 days festival called “Navaratri”. We are habitual here to read it in news paper headlines during this festival. These groups also scream loudly, behave badly with women/ girls and feel like they are flying in the sky. Cops here use to block many roads to control these activities during this festival. They are really troubling factors for common people. Nowadays, it becomes fashion in youngsters here to show anyone’s untamed enjoyment during riding. We can really define it as rough driving.

With Respect To Vehicle

Next categorization should be followed with respect to vehicle. Many articles already have recommended how to drive neatly within the vehicle’s limit. But in the case of rough driving, it always goes beyond the vehicle’s limits. Hard throttling, sudden braking, half clutching, frequent clutching, quick gear changing, inapt gear ratios, swinging vehicle from here and there, and overloading the seating capacity are some basic practices happen during rough driving.

We all know the effects of above mentioned driving conditions which obviously hazardous for the vehicle. The effects come out as defects either in short period or after a long.

Furthermore to above mention driving, many drivers use to apply horn continuously and gratuitously. I think this one is also a bad habit and should be considered as rough driving. Horn should be used to make other drivers aware about our presence on the road if we are following them or we are on either side. This helps to make judgment and to avoid any accident. Rather than generating awareness, continuous horning irritates and makes the situation erratic leading to misjudgements. Continuous application of horn also carries extra current from alternator which affects the battery charging rate. Moreover, it is also harmful to the diaphragm of horn and obviously generates noise pollution.

10 Tips To Remember

• Half clutching drastically damages clutch plates. So don’t use half clutch unless and until required.
• Avoid very quick gear shifting without applying clutch. Quick gear changing damages small parts used in shifting mechanism.
• Use your horn as and when required.
• Don’t use zigzag path to move your vehicle ahead if you have any other options.
• Maintain enough distance from other vehicles when passing through zigzag way.
• Avoid hard throttling, sudden braking, frequent clutching, quick gear changing, inapt gear ratios.
• Never overload your vehicle beyond its seating capacity.
• Avoid needless stunts.
• Never forget to use turning signal and signs.
• Don’t change your lane suddenly.

I hope, you all have got my thought which is at the back of this post. Please make sure to change your driving habits if you are following any of them. “Change” always takes some time to happen, but it is not impossible. So, justify yourself as a fast driver and not as a rough driver in front of your parents and pals. Please leave your comments as advice.

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Tips For Being A Sensible Rider

These days, I see a lot of kids riding Activas and other scooters and bikes as well. I don’t know if this scene is becoming too common in Bangalore alone or across the nation itself. What makes me worried is the way these kids ride these two wheelers. Small kids in the age group of 13 to 15 roam around in the streets with their throttles fully opened.

There is a reason why I come up with a post on this particular title. Yesterday, a kid (that’s what I wanna refer to him as) came speeding in a White Activa, lost his control and fell right in front of my bike. More than the speed with which he came and fell, what made me stunned was the fact that after the fall, guess the number of people who got up. They were four in number. Four people in a single Activa was something I cannot even imagine.

This incident made me the feel that nobody can boast about being a biker, but being a sensible rider is the ‘Need of the Hour.’ Here are few tips which will make you one.

1. This is for all those who forget the fact that all vehicles are equipped with turn indicators. They are after all meant to be used. Why can’t you indicate the other riders that you’re all set to go off the straight road. Make it clear that it’s your responsibility to do so.
2. Two wheelers are meant to carry only two people. I repeat so that it becomes more clear, two wheelers are meant to carry only two people. Where from do you get the idea of making four people sharing a single seat? Agreed that India is still in the clutches of poverty. But, this is a sign of high life risk which affects the other riders and commuters on the road as well.
3. Don’t ever ride your vehicle without Rear View Mirrors fitted. Only when you get a glimpse of what is happening behind you, you’ll be able to ride comfortably. I’ve noticed that all idiots who tend to turn immediately along a straight road are those who haven’t installed rear view mirrors.
4. People tend to ride off their senses in the traffic signals. Don’t try pushing yourself into every single gap resulting in dashing the other two wheelers from behind. Understand that you are also in a verge of getting the cars which are stuck with you in the signal getting scratched along its body.
5. Don’t jump traffic signals. I always wanted to ask a question to these guys and here it goes. Isn’t it a fact that you can only jump this signal and still be caught in the red light of the next one? What joy does that offer you? For God’s sake stop doing that cheap act.
6. It you’re forced to carry some baggage or luggage with you in your two wheeler, see to it that they are properly tied and are intact. Don’t ever proceed commuting thinking that it’ll stay perfectly in the place where you’ve kept it. What happens here is that the rider will start losing his/her balance in the mid of the road leading to a disastrous fall. The disaster mentioned here will not be just for you but for other ladies and gentlemen as well.
7. Guys, keep this is in your mind as a ‘Golden Rule’ whenever you ride your bike. Be to that side of the road where you are gonna make a turn. If you have to take a left turn along a main road, make sure that you start moving to the left side of the road a little earlier. I do observe a lotta people taking a left turn from the right end of the road. This creates confusion in the mind of the rider coming begin you. This is what is called ‘Senseless Driving.’
8.  This rule is for riders using vehicles with Disc Brakes. It so happens that most of the time, a commuter is forced to brake hard and obviously uses the front discs. But, it so happens that most of the regular riders prefer using the discs over the rear brakes.  The problem with this method of braking is something which you would have never observed. The person following you in his vehicle night not have discs in this bike/scooter. In such a case, when you tend to use your disc at instances where it’s not necessary, then there are more chances of your bike getting hit from the rear. This doesn’t mean that you don’t have to use where you have to.
9. Please don’t ride your vehicle in the night without turning on the headlamp. My pal sitting next to me asks who does it. But, the answer is that there are too many id**ts in the country who does this creating accidents everywhere irrespective of it being the city roads or the highways. Common sense again, right? I’ve faced issues because of such riders many a time.
10. There is nothing called ‘Negligence’ which comes into play when riding. Be alert and careful. Above that be Cautious on what is happening around you in the road.

By the time you’ll be reading this post, some senseless rider will be tormenting on the road. As 
TVS Tyres ad
 CEAT Tyres Ad says, ‘The Road is Full of Idiots’ who cannot be dealt with. But, atleast let us be responsible on our riding techniques so that the rest of the commuters are not disturbed by the way we ride. It is in fact part of our responsibility as a ‘Biker’.

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